stay: 29/Aug/2006 ..07/Sep/2006
General View ---------
People are very kind. They try to invite you for meals and stay. They are
different from other African people. They cannot speak English. The weather
is different from the north and the south. When I visited, in the north
was dry and in the south there was often rain.
I got SUDAN visa at JAPAN, Dar es Salaam (TANZANIA), Nairobi (KENYA) /
about $100 (single 2 weeks or 3 months, it depends on the embassy)
accommodation (camping); 300.., petrol; 145../L, Fanta(350ml); 100, local
restaurant; 100.., Internet; 500/h
- $1 = SD212 (F.X. 212.8)
- (border between ETHIOPIA) $1=SD200 (trading from $50..)
- (border between EGYPT, Wadi Halfa) $1=SD210, $1=LE5.2
- No ATM for the international card
- T/C is not a good rate 60..70% value of the cash
Alcohol is prohibited. non-alcohol beer, 'BIRELL' (330 ml, SD200)
They have parking area as long as there's no note. But the security is
your own responsibility.
You may find cheaper hotels. But they seems to be in the slum. And it was
difficult to find a parking area.
AMIR HOTEL (in the town, near the main road)
S3000, W? / self-contained
You can park your motorcycle in the kitchen. But the problem is the steps
in the entrance.
ELMOTBAKIL HOTEL (in the town, along the main road)
S8812, W13113 / self-donated
They have a parking area.
in Khartoum (capital)
National Camping Residence
(south of the town, refer to the map)
/ shared toilet & shower, You can find plugs at the stage. The rooms
seemed to be only for groups.
This seems to be a training camp. There are often many groups. Camping
area is just an earth ground. In case of rain, there will be many puddles.
When you came here from the south, you will find a central reservation.
And you'll see DAIHATSU, MITSUBISHI and SHELL petrol station on your left
side. After the SHELL, change the lane to the centre. There will be a break
point of the central reservation. You can find this turning point easily
because there are some cars which are turning left there. Turning left
there and going through the dirt road 1 km, then turn right. On your left
side after 300 m you'll find it.
Blue Nile Sailing Club (along the Blue Nile, between the White Nile Bridge and the Blue Nile
C; $3, parking; (car)$5, (motorcycle)$2 per day / drink service and so on
This is near the centre of the town.
in Wadi Halfa
The water seemed to be from the Nile directly in this town. So it was muddy.
Most people sleep on the bed in the patio of the hotel (Inside of the room
is not cool). The electricity will stop midnight.
Al Ashraf Hotel (in the west)
bed 700 / shared toilet & Nile? shower (muddy water)
You can park your motorcycle in the store. Plug is at the reception.
Nile Hotel (in the west)
bed 700 / shared toilet & bucket Nile? shower (muddy water)
You can park your motorcycle inside. But it may hard to go through the
reception space. This is popular, so many people are there.
in Khartoum (capital)
(hearsay) Registration at the Tourist Info seems to be free.
When you go to the north (go to Wadi Halfa), you must prepare for everything
here. Until Aswan in EGYPT, there are only small towns.
AFRA shopping centre
Big supermarket. Everything is here. Internet -cafe, bank, forex-bureau
and fast-food shop are also here.
When you came to Khartoum from the south, you'll find it on your right
side easily. It's along the big main road.
UAE Xchange (open 900..1500)
They show you a good rate. There are many branch offices in the town. It
is also in AFRA shopping centre.
At the first floor of AFRA shopping centre, inside of the bowling alley.
500/h / To display Japanese is possible
Mr. Moez Mahir
email@example.com / firstname.lastname@example.org
+249-9129-72571 / mobile; 0122-380-740
He can speak English and kind. He will help you anything about you with
no money. He is an elder brother of Mr. Mazar Mahir, who is at Wadi Halfa. Sometimes he is at Blue Nile Sailing Club. You
can make a reservation of the ferry to EGYPT by him. But if it's second
class of the ferry, there's no need (meaning?) of reservation. Because
it's non-reserved seat.
in Wadi Halfa
There are restaurants, groceries and hotels. There maybe an Internet-cafe
and petrol station, but I didn't see. When you go to Aswan (EGYPT), you
should make some Egypt Pound (LE) here. You need some money at the border
Mr. Mazar Mahir
MASHAN SHARTI FOR SERVICE
(other signs, 'Tele Communication
,' 'MIDHAT MAHIR
' on the white wall, near 'Nile Hotel')
On Wednesday 8 o clock, there are some European tourists in front of Mr. Mazar Mahir
's office. And he guides all embarkation & disembarkation procedure
until you get on the ferry. Basically each payment (refer to 'border')
is by yourself at the each window. So you can know he doesn't take a cut.
In addition, he doesn't expect a tip. I wonder how he lives.
He can speak English and kind. He is a younger brother of Mr. Moez Mahir
, who is at Khartoum. He is famous in Wadi Halfa, so it's easy to find
him by asking people.
Mr. Mazar Mahir
shows you the street-exchanger.
$1= SD210 (212), $1= LE5.2 (5.77)
( ) is inter bank rate
They try to mix old notes.
departure; (Wadi Halfa) every Wednesday, 1300..1400 / (Aswan) every Monday,
navigation; about 18 hours
When the train arrived late at Wadi Halfa, the departure of the ferry becomes
late. 'Abu Simbel'
appears 4 or 5 hours after the departure. In the night it is lit up.
(first-class) 13900 per person (at Aswan LE380 pp)
/ including supper and breakfast, 2..4 beds in a private room, shared
toilet, no shower, no door lock, plug is there!
/ supper, non-reserved long sheets or deck
/ loading into the passageway from the passenger's entrance
(car) about 450 euro?, (at Aswan LE2452)
/ Another ship will bring your car. The charge depends on the passengers
(cars) number. The passengers divide the shipping charge. The ship can
carry only several cars (?, not sure) at one time and operates with another
timetable. You cannot get your car on the same day at the arrival port.
The air-conditioner is working including second-class. You can buy a small
bottle of coke (SD100
) and so on in the ferry.
I recommend you the first-class.
The second-class is terrible! If you get on with motorcycle, loading is
after the other passengers. So it's impossible to get a seat. Even though
the deck, it's also difficult to get a space. At the deck, you need a blanket
or sleeping bag against the wind. A German tourist had a camera stolen
while he was sleeping on the deck.
You have to load your motorcycle into the cabin (passageway). Everything
is after all passengers. The passengers' entrance is not so wide. And there
is a little step
(10..15 cm?) at the entrance. I didn't check the width exactly, but DR250
with rear side-cases was possible to load. The parking space is just the
passageway near the entrance. The width of the passageway
is enough for two 250cc motorcycles parking in two rows
there. You can arrange your motorcycles lengthwise, too. Don't forget
to cover your motorcycle. I had the accessaries of the motorcycle stolen
The entrance was right side of the ferry at Wadi Halfa. But at Aswan, the
exit was opposite (left) side of the ferry. So it's better to load your
motorcycle from the head
into the ferry.
Government Establishments (visa) ---------
Gonder-Gedaref (entry from ETHIOPIA);
No money is charged. You need the carnet. Photo(1) and fingerprinting will
be required at the security centre (registration).
immigration --> customs1 --> customs2 --> security centre (registration)
You must get the registration stamp on your passport in a big town. But
at the above border, you cannot get it (Wadi Halfa is OK). If the stay
in SUDAN is less than ? days (a few days?), you don't need the registration.
When you leave SUDAN, your registration will be checked. If you don't have
the stamp, you'll be fined 6600 + 1000/day!
registration charge: (Khartoum) 8000 (but at the Tourist Information; free?),
(Wadi Halfa) 6600, (another town); 6600?
You don't need to get the stamp every town, I think.
Wadi Halfa (Wadi Halfa - Aswan) (leaving for EGYPT);
At the Alien Office (immigration);
Exit Card + Ebola hemorrhagic fever Card; 600, passport clearance; 500
photo(1), copy of your passport(1), copy of SUDAN visa page(1) (You can
copy them in the town)
The Yellow Fever Card might be checked (not sure). You don't need the 'Ebola
Hemorrhagic Fever Card' anywhere, though they made.
At the port;
port tax; (motorcycle) 2050
At customs (in the port);
document?; 1600, customs clearance; 1500
The Egypt formalities for entry are inboard performed after the Aswan arrival.
On that time, you can buy the visa for EGYPT ($15). I suggest you preparing for just $15 in advance.
The distance (km) is measured by GPS track data. When you drive, you should
think 4..7 % is longer than the following distance;
Khartoum[0 km]--Wadi Halfa (border)[about 1000 km]:
At least 3 days you need, I think.
*Desert Route (passing through Nubian desert)
I didn't take the route. But I know the Japanese woman who passed this
route by motorcycle. Maybe with a car. I'm asking the info.
*Nile Route (along the Nile)
This is a popular route. You need to cross the Nile by ferry somewhere
because there's no bridge. I heard there were three ferry ports. Dongola,
Argo and Delgo. I checked only Argo and Dongola port. Dongola is popular.
Dongola (west side) - ?? (east side)
(person)50, (motorcycle)50, (car)1300
They say that there is a bad road between Argo and ?? (east side ferry
port). But I think it's not so serious condition.
Kooya (west side) - Argo (east side)
(person)100, (motorcycle)100, (car)1000
/ 30 min to the opposite side. To find Kooya ferry port without a GPS
is a little difficult.
Petrol Stations (Khartoum - Wadi Halfa);
), Abu Dom
(There are some petrol stations. 180/L
, There were some petrol stations between Abu Dom and Dongola, but close)
(There are some petrol stations in the north of the town. 180/L
(There seems to be a petrol station. bottled petrol. 500..1000?/4L
(There is a petrol station. bottled petrol. 850/4L
, There was another petrol station in the north of the town, but close)
(I didn't watch. Maybe there is. But at Aswan (EGYPT) is cheaper)
You can get petrol only
the above places in the north from Khartoum.
Around August or September, you'll consume at least 2 little water in the
daytime. You can buy mineral water at a village on the way. (100/600ml, 200/1.5L
). It's one idea to mix the juice powder. There are many water jars in
the town. The water is cold and free. I don't know the risk of the water
You can find a place for bush-camping on the way. Sudan people are very
kind. They try to invite you to their home. To stay their home is also
Argo[0 km]--(dirt, corrugation, flood, divergences, soft-sand), flood point[? km]--Delgo[92 km]--(dirt, floods, divergences, soft-sand), flood point[125 km, 137 km, 139
km, 148 km]--the Nile view[188.. km]--Abri[197 km]--(corrugation, gravel, dirt, flood, detours, rarely soft-sand, rocky),
flood point[? km], puddle[250 km]--Wadi Halfa[375 km]:
The road is along the Nile. Sometimes some sections are covered with the
river. But there you can find the detour (wheel tracks) in the east side
of the road. Be careful of the soft-sand
Abri - Wadi Halfa section is in the wilderness
. That's very nice. Near Wadi Halfa, there is an intersection. The left
(north) way is a shortcut to Wadi Halfa, but you cannot pass, if the river
rises and the road is covered with water.
Abu Dom[0 km]--(paved)--[19 km]--(flat dirt, divergences with soft-sand and corrugation)--[64 km]--(paved)--military camp [66 km]--(paved)--[82 km]--(flat dirt, divergences with soft-sand and corrugation)--[141 km]--(paved)--[187 km]--Dongola[193 km]--(paved)--[199 km][0 km]--(dirt, soft-sand)--Kooya[38 km]--(ferry)--Argo[39 km]:
(19..64 km) and (82..141 km) sections were under construction. They were flat dirt but barricaded with
gravel hills. The detours were soft-sand, corrugation and many divergences (wheel tracks)! If you can break through the barricade, it's better to drive the flat
When you drive the detour, don't lost the direction. In case you lost your
way unfortunately, look for the telegraph poles. The poles must lead you
to the next town. And there is a road along the poles. The flat dirt which
is under construction is also near them.
When you head for the north, to find Kooya ferry port is a little difficult. It's 38.1 km from Dongola (the end of pavement in Dongola) to Kooya (the intersection
in Kooya to the port). The port is 600 m from the intersection to the east. The intersection
is small and has no sign. In addition, there are many small towns around
there. It's difficult to know which town is Kooya. I don't recommend you
to go to Kooya ferry port without GPS.
I don't know the section between Argo and ?? (ferry port town at the opposite side of Dongola). Someone said that's a difficult dirt road.
Khartoum[0 km]--(paved)--Omdurman[10 km]--(paved)--[68 km]--(flat dirt, detour with soft-sand and corrugation)--[79 km]--(paved)--[80 km]--(flat dirt)--[107 km]--(paved)--S.N.C.[209 km]--(paved)--Abu Dom[323 km, 6..7h]:
(68..79 km) and (80..107 km) sections were under construction. They were flat dirt but barricaded with
gravel hills. The detours were soft-sand and corrugation. If you can break through the barricade, it's better to drive the flat
The petrol st. is only S.N.C. between Omdurman and Abu Dom.
Gedaref[0 km]--(paved)--Wad Medani[231 km]--(paved)--Khartoum[about 420 km]
(border between ETHIOPIA)[0 km]--(dirt, bumping, under construction), fuel?[40 km]--[58 km]--(paved), fuel?[109 km]--(control)[152 km], PENTA[152 km]--Gedaref[about 160 km]: The first 58 km was a bump dirt road. But it was under construction. So
it will be paved in the future. At the border town, there was a fuel station
but only for diesel. 40 km and 109 km from the border, there were black-markets
but only for diesel. The petrol station is only PENTA PETROLEUM at 152
km from the border, before Gedaref. Passport Control is also at 152 km
from the border.
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